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I arrived in Buenos Aires early this morning after nearly 24 hours of travel. I haven’t slept much in the past couple of days, and it’s beginning to show. I find myself repeating sentences that I’ve already said or written; a roughly 600 word article took me the better part of the day to write. But I wouldn’t dare nap, not here. Not now.

The apartment is in Recoleta, about a 10-minute walk from where I stayed during my last visit to B.A. That one was strictly work though, and minimal pleasure. This time, I hope to get in a fair bit of both.

This afternoon we walked past an embassy that I foggily remember stumbling past on my last night in town last year, during my one moment of fun. A late night at El Alamo bar with instant expat friends led to a long night of very 20-something adventures. It was a relief at the time, a moment of excitement in the middle of a period I don’t remember too fondly.

I bought new sandals for this trip. Attempts at chicdom. The 5-inch platforms need to be broken in; after an hour in them, my feet are temporarily ruined. But they make me feel elegant, and this city deserves the effort.

Buenos Aires has a choose-your-own-adventure vibe. As my friend Lisan said, it’s a cultural gray area somewhere in between Latin America and Western Europe, or maybe both and not both at the same time, like a Venn Diagram of identities. We look like everyone else here, more or less, and it’s nice not to be pegged for a tourist until I open my mouth and the gutter rust of my mother tongue stumbles out instead of spilling.

We drink totally passable red wine that cost $4 USD, which I first thought tasted like soap but now, a mug in, am beginning to appreciate.

“I think it’s good for my heart and shit, just to feel excited. And scared.” J said that, but I agree. My brain is still in Toronto, but my body is here. And my heart, I think. Another Venn Diagram.

I was raised Catholic, which often comes up in conversation when I’m drunk. Apart from that, Papism features in my life as the one thing that both my parents have always held in common, despite their extraction from what may as well have been two entirely separate planets. But, while both sides of my family have always been technically affiliated with the Holy Roman Catholic and Apostolic Church, there are some cultural differences in how that membership gets expressed. Christmas is a great time to highlight those points of distinction, giving the bi-cultural child a prime opportunity to choose sides.

There are, as my mother would say, “Gringo things” and, conversely, there are non-Gringo things. Growing up, this dichotomy served the useful purpose of flagging certain Euro-American idiosyncrasies to scare us kids into retaining our (half-) Latin culture. It was with this implicit taxonomy in mind that I determined, fairly early in my childhood, that Christmas Eve midnight Mass was among the former, and that it was no good.

For a few years of my childhood, Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve was the horrible cap to hours of exhilaration and excess. Because I grew up within one mile of both sets of grandparents, and because said grandparents had all bred prolifically during their birth-control-free years of fertility, I could always count on Christmas Eve to be one giant, wonderful, people-filled gong show. Every year we’d start out at my dad’s parents’ house with a couple dozen aunts, uncles, and cousins in the late-afternoon and would proceed to gorge ourselves, run around, fight, cry, injure ourselves, open presents, and eat some more until around 9pm. From there we’d make the five-minute drive to my maternal grandparents’ house where another dozen or so relatives insisted we eat yet again, open more presents, and watch Spanish-language Christmas specials that inevitably featured some combination of music and buxom dancers dressed as either sexy Santas or naughty elves. A couple of hours later, my brothers and I would be ripped away from Telemundo‘s hypnotic gyrations and herded into my parents’ minivan—overtired and sugar crashed—to get to the church in time for midnight Mass. My aunts, uncles and grandparents stayed behind.

For those who haven’t had the pleasure of experiencing a Catholic Mass, the whole thing might have been designed explicitly for the torture of children: an hour of staid hymns, recitation, sit-standing repeatedly from a hard-ass wooden bench, and “SHH! NO TALKING!” hissed sharply into tender little ear canals. This was all difficult enough on a normal Sunday morning, but at the midnight hour of an exhausting day it was the seventh circle of hell. In between our tears of protest, my parents liked to remind us that this was a family tradition that my father and his six siblings had endured every single year of their childhoods without complaint. My grandparents still went—and they were old! Surely we spry, energetic youngsters could suck it up. It was that or a time-out.

While I’m sure midnight Mass existed in the nearby Spanish churches, my Salvadoran relatives never went. I suspect they figured, having lived through civil war and all, they were entitled a pass on avoidable unpleasantness. Or, maybe, it wasn’t part of their cultural repertoire. Either way, I was grateful when my parents finally decided, after those few years of midnight experimentation, to let the infinity-symbol-hips of naughty elves and sexy Santas lull us to sleep on our grandparents’ couch instead of putting us through a song and dance of late-night piety—a holiday tradition that continues today.

This post is a part of EthnicAisle, a blog about race, culture, and ethnicity. Read it or else.

Life’s been too busy for updates. BUT, here’s a sampling of the past month’s work:

-On Occupy Toronto feeling like a high school cafeteria in the Toronto Standard

-…And the queer community taking on Occupy Toronto 

-…And Occupy Toronto post-eviction from St.James Park

-A “catvertising” video spoof that brought international attention to a Toronto ad agency

-…and another YouTube video spot, this time by Toronto firefighters, on why their jobs aren’t “gravy”

-Dogs in costumes

-Queer press in Toronto

-A homecoming show for local synthpop babes Austra

-Billboards on heritage buildings (namely the Toronto Dominion Centre)

-A chat with the city’s outgoing chief planner on Toronto’s past, present, and futre

-Massive craft shows and the state of DIY in Toronto

-A wedding in a boxing ring in The Grid

-An Afro-Brazilian lovefest in AVClub

This isn’t everything that’s been written in the past month (there’s also, as always, my weekly print exclusive for GlobeTO, and a couple of items forthcoming in magazines). But just wanted to remind that I’ve been very much alive, despite blog silence.

I attended a discussion on transportation revamps. The takeaway: mobility management isn’t an argument about cars vs. public transit, but about increased efficiency and optimized interaction. As one might say, it’s about dolla dolla billz as much as individual contentment and convenience. Writeup here.

A summary here.

Nothing’s for sure yet, despite a Toronto Star article that led people to assume otherwise, but there is talk about pedestrianization in Toronto’s Kensington Market neighbourhood becoming a regular thing. I lay it down here.

Another roundup of crazy Toronto Craigslist finds. I love the eccentricity of this city!

The time has come: someone wanted a nice picture of my face to prove there’s a human behind the writing (instead of a soulless robot, as some have suspected). I will probably use this same photo for the next 2-5 years, it’s that flattering. You can barely even detect my glass eye!

Photo by the CBC's talented Andrew Budziak. Thanks buddy!

On Saturday I got to listen to a bunch of authors talk about what it’s like to be an author. I report about these talks here and here. If you’re interested in the process of authorship or the role of literature in society as both influence and reflection, you might find these worthwhile reads–particularly if you are a woman writer.

This song is kind of cheery but ultimately still dark, which I feel is appropriate for a sunny day in late October.

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